Fashion Flows; Chanel's War Couture

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Fashion has always followed multiple theories of distribution, including the trickle down, trickle across, and tickle up theory. These theories focus on the distribution of fashion, and how different societal groups influence one another to purchase garments. The trickle down and across theories have been found in many past fashion movements, as early as 1899. This theory is explained perfectly on createafashionbrand.com.

The trickle up theory is the most modern out of the three theories of fashion distribution. A perfect example of this theory, where lower classes influenced popular garments.

As the first world war emerged, so did Chanel. Created by Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel, the founder and namesake of the famous fashion house, Chanel took influence from labourers to create clothing for women. As men had to go and fight in the war, women took on roles at home ranging from engineering to farming. During this time, women’s clothing heavily focused on accentuating their waists with corsets, and wearing long, heavy skirts. Many of the role’s women took on could not be done effectively and efficiently in these garments, meaning the styles must change. Women soon adopted shorter skirts and even trousers for more mobility.

Designs (1928)

Fortunately, Chanel’s brand identity and aesthetic aligned with the new wartime fashion trends. Coco was smart and grew her fashion house during the war period whilst her male competitors were away fighting. She took inspiration from designer Paul Poiret, who had claimed to have abolished the corset as early as 1903. Chanel simplified this style and made it her own, knowing that there was a gap in the market for this type of womenswear. Without this wartime period, Chanel might not have been able to become the famous global designer house it is today.

Post World War 1, Chanel was known for creating “clothes so well fit the modern woman and her modern life” (Vogue October 1924) including her introduction of little black dress, introduced in 1920. Chanel’s little black dress soon became recognised as a “uniform for women between the wars” (Secrest 2015) Post War, Chanel also introduced the iconic Chanel No.5 Perfume, allowing the company to expand even more. It cannot go without saying that Chanel’s growth and success was a direct benefit from the war, which allows the company to stand as an iconic household name.

Designs for LBD (Unknown)

"Fashion: Chanel Keeps the Secret of Eternal Youth." Vogue, Oct 15, 1924

Secrest, Meryle. Elsa Schiaparelli: a Biography. London: Penguin Books, 2015